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Rhode Island Food Culture: Dining, Drinking & Food Stuff

Seth Price

Sous Vide for the masses. Will you consider getting the new Sous Vide Supreme?

I was exposed to the details of Sous Vide cooking by Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson of Frasca in Boulder Co. He was making these amazing ice cream bases using his sous vide contraption, then using a paco jet for service. I started playing with sous vide after I purchased Michel Richard's "Happy Kitchen" My form of ghetto Sous Vide is not for the weak of heart, nor the health department inspector. When I read the the review of the Sous Vide Supreme in the New York Times I started to pine for a new toy. Anyone else playing with Sous Vide? Share your thoughts about Molecular Gastronomy

Tags: sous, vide

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What kind of stuff are you cooking Sous Vide? Any favorites recipes?

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What do you think of the Sous Vide Supreme. Check out the article in New York Times and let me know.

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Seth,

First of all, I really like the new layout of the site and I'm glad to see some more conversations coming back. On the topic of sous-vide cookery I have a couple of comments. Although I'm not a huge proponent of so called "molecular gastronomy" I am very interested in cooking food with precise technique and finesse. That being said I believe that there are quite a few misconceptions about cooking sous-vide. One of the main points that they ever so briefly touched upon in the NYT article was the topic of an anaerobic atmosphere. Since sous-vide means "under vacuum" it seems odd to me that low temperature cooking in a bag is now called sous-vide. One of the main pluses of this cooking style, in my opinion, is the use of a commercial vacuum sealer that can create a vacuum with tremendous pressure. However, this is the same environment that produces nasty food-borne illness and is at the forefront of the controversy on the subject. There was an interesting article written by Amanda Hesser of the NYT about five years ago detailing her first experiences, at Per Se, with sous-vide cooking (or lack there of). Much of the food is simply compressed to force out excess water and air to make a dense, flavorful version of said ingredient (the famous compressed watermelon being the most ubiquitous these days). A lot of this is covered in Thomas Keller's "Under Pressure" which I'm sure you have read. You could also contact Bruno Goussalt (sp?) who was featured in the Amanda Hesser article, as he is known as the godfather of sous-vide and low temperature cooking in America.

As for low temperature cooking, I am a huge proponent but again I think many of the new techniques and much of the new equipment is misunderstood and to some degree misused. Often times the misuse can lead to time/temperature issues that lead to a food-borne illness and other times it is simply not knowing the appropriate occasion to use such a technique. It seems to me that many cooks these days will spend some time at a restaurant that uses new equipment almost exclusively and when they leave there has been no true education. It all goes back to fundamentals of cuisine. Braising in a traditional manner or making a custard base (for ice cream) by hand will teach cooks these basic elements that they can then, once mastered, put to good use with the aid of technological advances.

That's my two cents for now. I'm sure we could talk about this subject all day.

Cheers,
Nemo

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Nemo,

Thanks for the compliments. I am beginning to understand some of the limitations that may be present without a commercial vacuum to apply significant pressure. I agree with you that these tools/toys are only as good as ones understanding of food and cooking. My curiosity has been piqued and unless I find out something negative about the Supreme, I will most likely pull the trigger. I cook almost every night and have for the last 20 years with the exception of when I am at a friends home or restaurant. Because my audience mainly consists of my wife and children, I am always looking for culinary entertainment and tools to aid quality and consistency. You will have to come over when I get this thing. I you come accros any other cookbooks that reference sous vide, let me know. Best to you and your lovely bride. I imagine there is a little Bolin in the midst. Congrats.

SP

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Hello Frank

I sell wine now but I was born and raised on an Alto Shaam by my dad. i also took a week long cooking class by chef Herman Lies in Wisconsin or michigan who' at the time was Alto Shaams' exec chef. did you meet the same person. I forever owe my cooking skills to him.

Bob Goulet

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About to order it. I will let you know when it arrives.

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