Pizza in Providence?

[Steve Soper]

I suppose it was only a matter of time -- being new in town one might forgive such an obvious question -- but I have to know:

"Where is the best pizza in Providence?"

[Seth Price]

Where is Neo's?

[Seth Price]

Great news. I will try them both. I can't wait.

[Seth Price]

Understood. I am just happy to have another perspective other than my own.

[Rich Lang]

I agree with a lot of the comments below. I love Al Forno and Bacaro pizza, but it sometimes has a bit too much oil for my liking. I have actually had really good thin crust pizza at Feast or Famine (both in Warren and in Cranston on Park Ave), but it is hit or miss. Sometimes they make an absolutely perfect margherita, and other times it is overcooked and dried out. But worth the trip and I'll be interested to hear your experiences if you go. I have also had some good pizza at Bobby and Timmy's on the hill, though it's been years and I know it was sold at some point since I was there (because I met the owners mother in law on a plane a few months ago!).

Another consideration, given after all that this is PROVIDENCE palate is bakery pizza. You may turn your nose down at it if your definition of pizza is Al Forno or cheesey pizzeria pizza, but it is a Rhode Island classic eaten by most Rhode Islanders (along with spinach pies, which are usually sold side by side). It is more local local focaccia. We ate it almost every day growing up, and there is some tasty stuff out there. It consists of chewy dough and tangy sauce. The classic has nothing more than that, but then there is plenty with cheese, olives, eggplant, etc. It is meant to be eaten at room temp. Supreme Pizza on Oaklawn Ave in Cranston is a classic spot. There are some great ones in Prov and I'll get the names (don't remember them).

[Steve Soper]

Rick, I can't seem to locate online Supreme Pizza on Oaklawn in Cranston. I have found a Supreme Pizza on Mendon Road in Cumberland though.

[Steph]

I think Rick may mean Superior Bakery - 1234 Oaklawn Ave in Cranston. Delicious calzones and bakery pizza slices.

[Steve Soper]

I'm starting to put together a short list of pizza joints in Providence based on the responses I've read here so far -- thanks for the great feedback!

Anyway, I thought you all might like to know about a little taste comparison test four of us ran just last night.

Friday night, last night in fact, four of us ran our own side-by-side taste test of pizzas from two well-known pizzerias in Providence: Fellini's and Bob and Timmy's. My brother-in-law and his wife are keen on providence dining and drove down from Douglas, MA, to join us for our pizza experiment.

From Fellini's on Wickenden street we ordered their "Sweet Heaven" pizza, with bacon, ricotta cheese and scallions in a creamy parmesan sauce. From B & T we ordered a three mushroom pizza with portobello, crimini and shitake mushrooms, diced tomatoes and grilled yellow onions.

OK, first the basics.

The pizzas come in only one size: Fellini's specialty pizzas are 18-inch and cost $20. Bob and Timmy's specialty pies are about 14 inches and cost $15. Fellini's is traditional oven baked, B & T's are grilled. The Fellini's round pie was sliced in the typical pie shape, while the B & T square pie was (supposed to be) sliced in small squares/rectangles.

Both were ordered at the same time and were ready at the same time (about 20 minutes, early Friday night).

Both locations provided tables but one could certainly be safe in saying that take-out is the primary source of business.

Second, the comparison.

The ingredients in both were fresh and very tasty; the mushrooms in fact filled the kitchen with their earthy aromas as soon as the box was opened and the grilled onions on the B & T pie were just right, nicely al dente.

The Fellini pizza was equally tasty and the use of ricotta appealed to all four of us. (We are all used to making our own pizzas, both oven and grilled.) And their method of using bacon was tres cool indeed. They used entire strips (not bits or pieces) and they were cooked to perfection. The scallions I thought a nice touch, although the parmesan sauce escaped us.

The issue came down to the crust.

The Fellini crust was just right, held it's shape when picked up and had a nice texture to the bite.

The B & T pie was more like naan bread than pizza. It almost seemed as if it had not been cooked through, yet it looked fine when examined closely. It was very soft and doughy and, like I said reminded two of us of Indian naan bread. It made it very difficult to cut -- and in fact they had hardly cut it at all before boxing it.

The B & T crust really put off two others at the table who have spent the better part of the last 20 years grilling their own pizzas at home. I must admit that while I liked the flavor of the crust there was something fundamentally flawed about the crust and clearly they had not done something properly.

So the winner for the evening was clearly the Fellini pie.

Fellini Pizzeria, 166 Wickenden Street, ph: 751.6737; www.FelliniPizza.com
Bob and Timmy's Pizza, 32 Spruce Street, ph: 453.2221

[Steve Soper]

I reached down into our storage room for the wine: a 1995 Val di Suga Brunello from Angelini, which went great with both pies! Or rather, the pies went great with the wine, eh?

[Tomatosoup]

In terms of the pizza places already mentioned- I do love Bob and Timmy's and Nice Slice- crust and toppings have always been spot on. I've ordered Fellini pies before that have been soggy and overloaded with toppings.

A place I always go back to- while not greasy pizzeria style pizza- is Gourmet on Hope Street. They have a fantastic wheat crust that isn't grainy, but remains light and crispy. The cheese is a fantastic blend, and the sauce is tangy and full of flavor. They also have a BBQ chicken that is amazing.

[Seth Price]

I know that there are many thoughts on this but I would have to say that Al Forno and Bacaro top the thin crust wood grilled pizza category. A bit on the expensive side bit a fantastic experience none the less. Whether they were the first or not, George Germon and Joanne Killeen are considered the patriarchs of grilled pizza in America and have led to a profusion of wood grilled pizza options. I have heard repeated grumblings about the attitude and service at Al Forno and the fact that the space is starting to show it's age. All that being said, they know how to cook consistently great food. Bacaro is a newly renovated space where Chef/Owner Brian Kingsford is finding his own voice apart from Al Forno. He is talented and passionate and it shows in his food. Both are worth a visit in your search for the holy grail. Now, regarding pizzeria style pizza. I am very fond of Fellini's on Wickenden Street. They use a mixture of white, wheat and cornmeal in their crust that gives it a nice crunch. Their choice of toppings always seems to please everyone in my family. Nice slice on Thayer street has a decent slice as well. There are others but none have inspired me to return.

[Geoff Griffin]

Rich mentioned bakery pizza, so I must speak up for Twin's Pizza on Mineral Spring in North Providence. It is the missing link between bakery pizza and pizzeria pies. I never understood pizza strips until Twin's showed me what pizza strips were aspiring to. The crust is thick and the slices are square. Dough is super-white, close to eating sheet cake with tomato sauce frosting. Reminds me of what we used to call "Sicilian" where I grew up (suburban NYC) except the crust isn't all yeasty. Meatball topping is true meatball slices (not ground beef). Do not wear NY Yankees gear.

[Rich Lang]

If it's in North providence, say no more. I'll pass it on to some Rhodie pizza strip fans. Also, I'll get the names and addresses of the places friends like and follow up with a post.